Part Two of our May travels, it will be another educational trip including a lot of history so hang on!
Day ONE - Galway Ireland
After an overnight in Shannon Airport, with rental car we start our trip. First a visit with our friends in Galway... Chris and garden scene.
We take a walk with Victoria to downtown Galway - crossing the river Corrib.
A visit to St. Nicholas' Church along with some shopping. This church, now Church of England, was named after the patron saint of children - Saint Nick
Large memorial to Jane Eyre, probably not the Jane of Charlotte Bronte. Bequeathed 300 pounds to the poor. The church was finished by 1320
Crossing the bridge - photo by Victoria.
That evening we visit and get a much needed sleep after our three flights from Turkey
Day TWO
Our trip in red on the map of the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.
Click to enlarge.
GREEN dot is Shannon Airport (Limerick) on the West coast where we stayed overnight.
Black dots are overnight stays. After the stop in Galway did the upper clockwise loop (2 nights in Portrush - far North) returning to Galway for 2 nights.
Then did the lower loop counter clockwise, staying two nights in Dingle, then one at the Airport.
Orange color was our short 2004 trip, in Galway area and a night in Dublin.
On our way!
Glimpse of the Stone bridge seen in the Quiet Man movie with John Wayne. Very popular stop for tours, some locals say it's a con since so many stones have been taken for souvenirs that the bridge has been rebuilt at least three times! We didn't stop (Tom might have wanted a stone).
Yes, still cloudy as we go around the pennsula from Galway.
Our 1st goal, the shop of the Bodhran (drum) maker, Malachy Kerns. Not opened yet so we visited the next door ceramic shop, visited with the lady and bought a few things.
They finally opened at about 11:30, and we purchased a gift there.
In the window was a copy of a letter the Obama's sent and a duplicate of the bodhran made at their request. We met Malachy and his wife and talked with them a little.
View of the shop and the 1835 monastery tower near by.
Rocky scenery along the coast.
Still overcast, we continued on to Connemara National Park.
We visited the museum at the headquarters - good information on bog wood, these two pieces 3,500 years old. Bogs developed after early settlers cleared trees for farming and structures - plus climate changes.
View near Leenane, where we stopped at a wool store for some warmer hats.
We are going about 50 MPH on these narrow roads.
Stayed at a Balina B&B, the owner playing with his grandkids that evening.
Day THREE
Heading north and we take a jog left to see some sights beyond Balleycastle.
We arrived at the start of the trail to Moyne Friary, founded in 1460.
Cross the farmer's property at your own risk!
Small print on Notice sign "...the occupier of this farm excludes the duty of care towards visitors."
Nice stone steps.
Then tiptoe carefully through the muck - overcast but some clearing.
The cows observe... but no bull.
Approaching the Friary.
Then plenty of sun at the Friary.
Dandelions can be nice - we trek back to our car.
Tom steps up... and over.
An aerial view of Ceide Fields from a poster - we are west of Sligo on the coast.
The pyramid is the museum on the most extensive stone age site in the world.
Display on what the homes were like. Between five and six thousand years ago the early settlers cut trees and developed fields with stone fences. After about 500 years a cooler, damper climate caused bog formation that made farming impossible.
View west from the trail behind the museum. The area farmed was about 6 sq. miles.
View north from the top of the museum.
View above the museum on the trail. It's windy and cool. Structures are found when metal rods are pounded down through the soil and hit rocks.
Off to more old stones!
Tom gets nervous - a one handed driver!!
Nice truck, but got tired of following it for miles. On our way to Sligo.
Jean at Carromore Megalithic Cemetery, West of Sligo - a reconstructed tomb mound.
In the interior, a stone burial chamber.
Over 60 tombs in the area, 30 still visable, built 4000 to 3000 BC
In the far distance, another mound on top of Knocknarea Mt.
Tom tries out Tomb
We stop on our way north at Donegal to visit the restored Donegal castle.
Hearth in the castle, started in 15th Century.
Old print of Donegal Castle, now surrounded by the town.
Another view of the room with the hearth.
We are now in Northern Ireland on the North coast. We stay two nights at the Beulah Guest House in Portrush. The route to the parking lot was more like very long alley.
Day FOUR
We find the Beulah B&B very nice, the breakfast fine, and the suggestions for the day helpful.
Walking around a little before starting our busy day, a view near our B&B.
Our goal, a walk past Castlerock to Downhill House ruins (1785). Unfortunately, we didn't drive far enough and did a loop trail near some summer housing.
The ruins (left side of the view) that we could see across a ravine, were not easily accessable from our trail (in red).
If you click on this view to enlarge, you can see the ruins, plus a small temple to the left.
It was quite cold and windy so we decided to head back east for our main goals for the day.
Fortunately, the sun now comes out for most of the day!
Our first view of Dunluce Castle.
Originally an Iron Age site, then a fort and later a Castle in 1305.
A bridge is now where there once was a drawbridge.
A Spanish Armada ship sunk near here due to the storm that destroyed most of the fleet.
On ship were about 1300, only 5 survived.
Oven and fireplace remains.
Jean in the tower.
Last look back.
Our next goal is Torr road, that curves around the NE corner of Ireland beyond Ballycastle.
Definitely sheep country.
It's a beautiful drive, and narrow (no trucks or busses allowed).
About forty miles east is Scotland
We considered going back at this intersection, and were waiting for the sheep to pass.
Farmer's wife directing traffic.
Had a nice conversation with them, and they encouraged us to go farther southeast.
When Jean commented about the great view, he said "If you can see 50 mile's, you will also get all the weather from those same miles."
Stopped for lunch in the car, view back North. Torr Head juts out in the water right of center.
Their farm is on the slopes the farthest left of the point.
It was a beautiful drive.
Heading back via highway, with a sidetrip to see the "Dark Hedges" near Ballymoney as suggested by our host at the guest house. Beech trees planted in the 1700's.
Next, the Giant's Causeway. Since childhood Tom has wanted to see Fionn mac Cumhaill's (Finn McCool's) legendary engineering project.
Jean walking towards the formation, pillow basalt on the cliff to the right.
Columnar basalt is common in Washington State but not in a location like this.
Tide is out enough to reach the farther outcrop.
When molten basalt cools, it can form columns with multiple sides.
Jean takes in the view
Passing through a gap for a view to the East.
View on the other side looking East.
A print from Susanna Drury's painting - 1740. View from the East.
Touring there became very popular after that time.
Alternate route back to the other side.
A lot of good seats for a view.
View from ridge looking West.
Have a seat.
After a dinner, a walk to the nearby beach from the guest house.
Reflection at the end of a great day.
Day FIVE
Leaving Portrush that morning, we start our long drive South.
With GPS assistance we get untangled from a wrong turn in Dungannon. So from Irish Way, squeeze onto Irish St. and then to A29. Inset: Google street view of same.
We arrive at Monasterboice Monastery, interesting fence in the parking area.
The round tower - the door at one time was 15 to 20 feet above the ground, 1000 years of accumulating soil have covered much of the bottom. The tower was for protection from Norse attacks.
The Monastery, founded by St. Buithe before his death in 521, was burned in 1097.
This is Muiredach's High Cross, considered the finest in all Ireland, named after an abbot who died in 923. This is the West face. It was likely used as a visual teaching tool.
A group was being given a lecture about the cross, this is the East face.
Much more detail is on the web:
http://www.bluffton.edu/~sullivanm/muiredach/muiredach.html
Colorful field of Brassica napus - rapeseed
Traveling on, we visit Mellifont Abbey ruins, Church built in 1157.
In distance the circular Lavabo c. 1200, a hand washing area for the monks inside the church.
A little farther South we visit the Bru na Boinne complex near the bend of the river Boyne.
Two main sites can be visited, only by bus from the Visitor Center.
The Boyne, view from bridge over the river to the bus pickup.
It's very cool and windy, as we start our tour of the Knowth site. The largest mound is restored, 127 large kerbstones many with designs are now protected by a concrete rim.
Dates for this mound are 2500 to 2000 B.C.
A kerbstone with designs, one can only guess at the meanings or purpose.
We are able to enter a chamber with a display, and a view of one of the passages in this mound that leads to burial chambers.
A view of the one passageway (not accessible) we are able to see. In the chamber are basin stones where cremated remains were placed.
Web photo of one of the passageway's at Knowth.
Web photo of a basin for cremated remains.
General view including the Boyne river.
The archaeological prehistoric dates for human occupation here are from 3800-2200 BC
Photo taken as we exit the Knowth area for the next bus to Newgrange
Newgrange as restored, there is some disagreement about how the white stone found at this site was used.
Kerbstones are decorated here also.
Photo of the entrance where we wait our turn.
Close-up of the non-english speaking motorcycle couple.
Web photo taken at Winter Solstice. The sun shines directly through the top portal to the rear of the burial chamber every Dec. 18th to the 23rd.
You can enter a lottery for a chance to experience it - "There is no guarantee that there will be sunlight in the chamber on any of the mornings…the event is totally weather dependent!"
Early photograph of the entrance, top portal not discovered yet.
Artist's view of what the mound may have looked like from Neolithic to Norman times - often with a settlement on top.
No photography is allowed inside. It's a narrow passageway, fairly dark and we are shoulder to shoulder in the chamber. Lights are turned out, then a flood light turned on to give an impression of what it looks like in the Winter Solstice.
Two web photos
Looking from the rear alcove towards the entrance.
The corbelled ceiling is impressive - it's 500 years older than the oldest pyramid, still waterproof, and supports 200 thousand tons of weight. View is straight up.
This web link is excellent for panoramic views of the inside and outside - click on the first photo:
http://www.voicesfromthedawn.com/newgrange/
Views as we leave for the bus.
We head toward Trim and pass this B&B, turn around and book a room. The owner does fishing tours in the area and in the U.S. We go for a wonderful place for a dinner meal just a few miles away at their suggestion.
View out our window at dusk.
Day SIX
A visit to Trim Castle on the Boyne River.
The keep inside the castle walls, it's part of the largest Anglo-Norman Castle in Ireland.
It was used as a location in the film "Braveheart".
We have time before the tour of the keep to take a walk.
As it was - our bridge was across the river - the moat is no longer there.
Views from the top of the keep.
Puling weeds from a wall, not fun we think.
Farther south near Nevan is the Hill of Tara historical site.
He stopped, quickly opened his door and reached out with a piece of wood to stop his car from rolling backwards! A Citroen 2CV. Only 3.8 million built from '48 to '90.
Web view of the site, quite a complex with a burial mound and ceremonial places but never a town. We mainly walked the distant rings.
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Views from the rings.
Tom at what is believed to be the Lia Fail (Stone of Destiny) at which the High Kings were crowned.
It did not let out a screech as it supposedly did when a king touched it.
We are heading to Clonmacnoise Monastery, a little South of what looks to be the geographic center of Ireland.
Nearing our destination, we see peat being dried in stacks. There are a lot of bogs in the area.
Clonmacnoise founded in 546, became a "major center of religion, learning, craftsmanship, and trade by the 9th century".
It being on the Shannon River, it was attacked often (by Irish, Vikings and Normans).
McCarthy's Tower in the distance.
O'Rourkes Tower is on the right.
Entrance to Temple Melaghlin or King's Church, built in 1200.
The museum displays the original "Cross of the Scriptures" a copy is outside. We procede West to visit Chris & Victoria in Galway - They suggested the visit to Clonmacnoise.
Day SEVEN
We spend two nights with our friends, mostly visiting (some washing of clothes also).
We host Chris & Victoria at the Artisan Restaurant - great meal.
Presenting the ladies...
...and here are us gents.
I noticed this memorial on a building, found his obituary on the web and this photo of him performing.
Busy weekend night in downtown Galway.
Day EIGHT
I take a pan of our friends atrium the morning we leave.
We are on our way to the Dingle pennusula for two nights... but not by bike.
A short stop to see Askeaton Abbey (1389) on our way.
The sign I saw entering the Friary (inset) seems to be ignored!
Historic Note:
1579, after failing to take Askeaton Castle, Sir Nicholas Malby attacked the Abbey
where he killed a number of monks in a gruesome fashion.
This was once an upright wall, now embeded in the ground on its side.
Narrow passageway.
On to Dingle - weather not good for driving up Connor Pass as planned.
So first to our B&B, then a walk downtown for a good dinner... and desert.
View from our B&B - Does a rainbow mean a better tomorrow? Stay tuned!
Day NINE
Excellent Irish breakfast at the Greenmount House B & B.
And a morning rainbow.
After breakfast we do the Conor Pass drive NW from Dingle.
Then the clockwise circle drive with lot's of views.
View to the NE from the pass.
View SW
Returning down the road - Dingle in view.
Beehive huts - Believed to be around the 12th Century up to the 19th.
Traveling around Slea Head.
We take a walk down to Coumeenoole Beach - between Slea Head & Dunmore Head
The film "Ryan's Daughter" used this beach. That's Herb's daughter in the picture.
Commercial photo of the beach from above.
We drive on, stopping to visit the Blasket Center, dedicated to the people who lived on Blasket Island until 1953. When encouraged to write about their isolated lives, several became well known authors.
Reproductions of the boats they built and used.
View from the Blasket Center of Great Blasket Island
Falling apart in the distance is the schoolhouse built for filming Ryan's Daughter - Robert Mitchum as the teacher.
Where the road turns East is a terrific view.
We visit the Gallarus Oratory - dates estimated from 6th to 9th, or as late as the 12th century.
Mortar was mainly used in the inside.
Stones are tilted so it is dry inside.
We finished with the sites we wanted to see, and it started to rain as we left.
Second room we stayed in - moved due to the other being booked earlier. Very nice but not the view of the other.
Our excellent room for the first night (photo taken after we moved).
The Greenmount House where we stayed - http://www.greenmounthouse.ie/
Another walk downtown, this for a concert.
We heard Muireann Nic Amhlaoibh sing and play, also Eoin Duignan on flute and Uilleann pipes among others. Can find them on YouTube.
Pipe example at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5rFO2cThmc
Day TEN
Last morning at Dingle, we head inland to see the Rock of Cashel
The 90 ft. tower is the oldest part still existing, c. 1100, the rest of the Castle and Cathedral is 12th and 13th Century.
It has been under restoration since the 1970's.
View from the cemetary.
Jean volunteers to be a photographer in the cemetery that surrounds the Cathedral.
Jean watches as this boy studies something in the grass.
Rock of Cashel in the past.
Rainy again, time to head back to Shannon Airport.
Don't know why I took this!
Last photo of Ireland - from our room at the Airport Hotel
Infinity walkways at Heathrow airport the next morning.
Moving towards take-off on Air Canada to Calgary.
Good meal, but...
... long flight and another short one to Seattle to go.
Thanks for joining us on our trip.
